Fashion Basics: Jackets

I hope that you had a blessed and safe holiday season. I shopped a little, read a little, and ate A LOT, and am now ready to get back to work.

I've also spent the last few days working on my goals for 2006, which include releasing several new ebooks in the coming months as well as adding a resource for the many image consultants, stylists, and fashion direct marketers on the list. I'll keep you posted as the release dates approach.

Finally, given the nature of many of the questions I've received in recent months, I've decided to get back to basics in 2006 with a "Fashion Basics" series every few months to get everyone "on the same page" fashion-wise. For the fashion veterans on the list, it will offer a good review; for the less experienced, it will help build your fashion vocabulary and show you what to look for when buying different pieces.

So where should we start? With one of the key pieces in any woman's wardrobe: the jacket.

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If you're a long time reader of this ezine, you know that I'm a big fan of jackets. They're THE power piece in a wardrobe, and can be used to establish your authority in just about any situation. Whether you work in an office or are a stay-at-home mom, are starting in the work force or have long since retired, you should have a simple jacket in your wardrobe. Why? Because with a little imagination and some well-chosen accessories, a basic jacket can take you just about anywhere on a moment's notice, from meetings and club functions to socials and funerals.

The jacket should fit comfortably through the shoulders, and should be about 1/2" wider than your blouse shoulder to fit smoothly over tops and blouses. The collar should lay flat at the back of the neck, and the sleeve should hit at the wrist bone when the arm is bent and allow around 1/2" of the blouse sleeve to show (Coat sleeves are ½" longer than jacket sleeves). The waistline curve or seams should be at your natural waistline, and buttons should be able to be buttoned without the fabric straining or gaping.

A quality garment should lay smooth without puckering, have adequate seam allowance, finished hems and button holes, and buttons that are firmly in place. If the fabric has a pattern or stripes, the pattern should match at all major seams.

Here's the tricky one. Since all jackets don't work equally well on all body types, you need to find the styles that best compliment your shape. Here are five of the most popular:

Blazer

A blazer is a lightweight, loose-fitting, tailored jacket, typically with a shawl collar and notched lapel. Classic versions hit anywhere from mid-hip to the bottom of the buttocks, and because of its simple line, it can be worn easily by most figure types. If you're petite or plus size, opt for a color that allows you to wear the blazer as part of a monochromatic ensemble to make you look taller and slimmer.

Newport-News

Double Breasted Blazer

Double breasted is the term used to describe any garment with a double row of buttons down the front. While it's a flattering style for thin or average size figures, the same cannot be said for women with wide shoulders, big chests, or large tummies, as the rows tend to visually widen the torso. Wear with caution.

Kasper
SmartBargains

Three-Quarter Length Jacket

Three-Quarter Length jackets usually hit anywhere from mid-thigh to just above the knee and are typically worn with pants, or with skirts or dresses that are the same length or a few inches longer than the jacket. Because of the amount of material involved, three-quarter length jackets tend to look best on women of average or tall height and those with long legs. The long vertical line created by the opening can be particularly slimming for tall, plus size women.

Larry Levine
Overstock

Waist Length Jacket

Waist length jackets, as the name implies, extend only as far as the waist. Because the length draws attention to the mid-section, this style tends to be flattering to women with small and long waists, unflattering to women with short waists, large tummies, or wide hips. Wear with caution.

Walter Boucle Jacket
Overstock

Chanel Jacket

Chanel is the term used to describe the box-shaped, hip-length, collarless jacket style that Coco Chanel made popular after adapting it from the cardigan sweater around 1930. Chanel-style jackets are often made of nubby fabrics and typically feature contrasting trim and patch pockets. This style is a good choice for slim and average size figures; it can also be flattering for women with long waists and small chests.

Tracy Reese
Bluefly

In general, the most flattering jacket styles are those that play up your assets and hide your figure challenges.

A basic style in a neutral color will offer the most versatility, particularly if you don't often wear jackets. If you happen to wear jackets all the time and are looking for something different, try a pattern that includes at least one neutral color that you can wear with existing solid pieces.

Adding a jacket to your wardrobe shouldn't be stressful. If you opt for a comfortable, well-made piece in a style that flatters your figure and that works well in your existing wardrobe, you'll be able to wear it for years to come. If you choose wisely and wear it often, it will be money well spent.

Diana Pemberton-Sikes is a wardrobe and image consultant and author of "Wardrobe Magic," an ebook that shows women how to transform their unruly closets into workable, wearable wardrobes. You can learn more at
http://www.wardrobemagic.com