Fashion Basics: Blouses

One of my resolutions this year was to finish writing several new ebooks that have been in the works for months. The first one on the list, ACCESSORY MAGIC, will be available in a couple of weeks. It covers many of the questions I get regarding accessories, like what color of hose to wear, how to wear belts, which handbags work best, and the like, and it does so in a way you may not have seen before. I'll be doing something extra special only for the subscribers of The Clothing Chronicles, so be sure to keep a look out for the announcement so you can "grab while the getting's good." I'll give you more details next week.

with readers seeking specific advice about their particular situation (tall, short, large-chested, etc.). While I certainly appreciate the interest and am glad the article got people thinking, my schedule, unfortunately, doesn't permit me to spend hours offering one-on-one consultations by email. I strive to offer as much actionable advice as I can in 750 words or less each week, and encourage you to use the information as a base to experiment on your own. I will say that I'm checking out a tool that will help you sort out these myriad details, and I'll give you more information on that once I've reviewed it.

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Since a classic blouse can play a lot of roles in any wardrobe, whether worn under a suit, under a sweater, as a jacket, or on its own, quality and fit should be your primary concerns. Chosen well, a blouse can be worn for several years; chosen poorly, it can be shoved to the back of the closet in record time.

The collar should hit about mid-neck and lie smoothly without wrinkling or gaping, and the top button should close without straining. The most flattering collars are those that are the opposite of your face shape, since the shapes are so close to one other. A round collar would visually widen a round face, for example, while a long, angular collar would thin and elongate a round face. Small faces and necks call for small collars; large faces and necks call for large collars. Yes, proportion matters.

The sleeve seam should hit right at the pivot bone on the shoulder, which is the bone you feel in your shoulder when you raise your arm straight to the side. Long sleeves should reach to where the hand and wrist meet, and the sleeve should be narrow without being too tight. Short sleeves should fall straight down from the shoulder. Armholes should be high without being uncomfortable or restricting movement.

The front of the blouse should not gape or pucker when buttoned, nor should the bottom ride up in any way. If the blouse has bust darts, they should point to, but stop within, 1" of the bust point. If you have a large bust (cup size C or above), blouses with darts will offer the best fit.

There should be no pulling across the back, arms or chest. Test by crossing your arms in front, lifting them overhead, and sitting. Everything should hang straight without binding or puckering.

For maximum wearability, the blouse should be long enough to be tucked in. A white (or cream) blouse is a wardrobe staple, with beige, light blue, light pink, black, and red also being perennial favorites. Popular fabrics include silk, rayon challis, crepe de chine, cotton, and broadcloth. If the fabric is sheer, wear a flesh-colored camisole underneath.

1. Classic Blouse

The classic v-neck blouse is the most versatile and is generally flattering to all body types. If you have a short neck, short waist, large bust, or broad shoulders, opt for simple lines and no embellishments. If you have sloping shoulders, try styles with shoulder embellishments like epaulettes and puffy sleeves. If you have a small bust, look for styles with breast pockets, ruffles, or shirring.

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2. Surplice Wrap

Another popular style, the surplice wrap is figure-friendly to all but the thinnest and least-endowed. It makes heavy torsos look thinner, large busts look smaller, short waists look longer, and long waists look shorter. How? I don't know - but Diane von Furstenberg has sold millions of her wrap dresses in the last thirty years because this diagonal line is flattering to so many bodies. Surplice wraps can look very elegant under suits or on their own, depending on the fabric.

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3. Ruffled Blouse

Ruffled blouses typically offer ruffles around the neck, along the buttons, or at the sleeves. Because the ruffles add extra bulk, they can be very flattering to the boyish or small breasted figure. Avoid if you're heavy or fully busted, however, as they'll only call attention to these areas.

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4. Shell

A basic shell is a like a dressy t-shirt with its simple, utilitarian shape. It works well on most body types and can be dressed up or dressed down, depending on what you wear with it. If you have a short neck or large bust, opt for styles with a U-neck instead of a jewel (circular) neck to open up the neck area and make your neck look longer.

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Blouses are a great wardrobe staple to have whatever your lifestyle or line of work. They can upgrade casual pieces, add polish to more formal attire, and can be worn in a variety of ways. So invest in a few classic blouses. Your wardrobe will be the better for it.

Want some other examples of what blouse styles might look best on your body type? Then download a copy of WARDROBE MAGIC,

http://www.wardrobemagic.com

To see how easy dressing well can be.